30mm scope mounts hold a scope with a 30mm tube to your rifle's rail, and many thermal and digital scopes use that tube size. The right mount puts the scope at the right height and eye relief, and holds zero through recoil and a bumpy ride in the truck.
A 30mm cantilever mount pushes the scope forward, which helps on rifles with short rails or when you need more eye relief. A quick-detach mount lets you pull your thermal off, swap to a day scope, and put it back on. A 20 MOA base adds elevation so you have more adjustment left for long range. A 30mm ring mount is the simple, low-profile choice when the scope sits right over the receiver.
Measure the height you need so your eye lines up naturally with the scope when your cheek is on the stock. For InfiRay-specific mounts, see our iRay mounts. Questions about fit? Call (309) 781-8421.
No. Rings must match your scope's tube diameter, and a 30mm tube is about 0.18 inch wider than a 1 inch tube. Some mounts, like the 30mm/1in cantilever mounts here, are listed for both sizes, so check the product page to see how each one fits.
Tighten to the torque spec from the mount maker, usually given in inch-pounds, using a torque wrench or driver. Too loose and the scope shifts under recoil; too tight and you can damage the tube or strip a screw. Tighten ring screws evenly in a cross pattern so the gaps stay equal.
Many shooters put a small drop of blue (removable) threadlocker on base screws so they don't back out, and leave ring screws dry unless the maker says otherwise. Follow the instructions that come with your mount, and skip red threadlocker on optics hardware you may want to remove.
You can. If the scope sits too high, you lose a solid cheek weld and your head floats, which hurts consistency from shot to shot. Pick the lowest mount that clears your barrel and still lets you see the full image comfortably with your cheek on the stock.